Leaving Bangkok Behind

My last night in Bangkok, and in southeast Asia. I spent the last 4 days at Shanti Lodge, a hippy-ish guesthouse that functions somewhere between a retreat center, commune and hostel. It tucked in an area called Tewet, north of the madness of Kho San Road, the main backpacker/tourist area. The lodge is surrounded by trees and potted plants, fronted by a large open, wooden-clad restaurant with big chairs and comfy cushions. Bathrooms are shared, but I had a private room with A/C for 11 dollars. Splurging again :)

It's conceivable to never leave the place. The restaurant serves delicious and varied food - not expensive but more so than street food - and nobody bothers you if you sit there on the couch all day. With the mad heat and chaos outside, it's probably the safest option. It's not 100% perfect - for all the ambiance and communal amenities, the staff is relatively restrained in their friendliness as are the other guests. Although we did meet some cool French guys one night and stayed up lounging and chatting with them.

On the second day, my friend Guido joined me at Shanti. I met Guido in Kep (post) and he is the person who recommended the place. We did some sightseeing - the Royal Palace is the most amazingly decadent place I have ever seen and the huge laying Buddha in Wat Pho is also impressive - but again, the heat killed us. So we went to MBK - the well-known shopping mall which is conveniently blessed with A/C. I had already scoped the shopping areas out the day prior, acquiring a few things, but that didnt stop me from shopping some more. Clothes are really cheap - 3-8 bucks for most pieces - and stylish as well. I had to buy a cheap tote to add to my collection of luggage just to cart the goods home. (And you know I don't even like shopping!).

Another friend I met, Monica, whom I met in Siem Reap randomly showed up at Shanti as well. I had dinner with her and her cousins one night, which was nice. Funny how small a world it is when you are traveling.

The last night in Bangkok, I went to the Sky Bar at the Tower. To continue my trend of good luck, another friend, Patrick, whom I met in Kep where I also met Guido, was in Bangkok at the same time and emailed me to make plans to see this Sky Bar place, which is a favorite of his. (I had to buy cheap "fashionable" shoes on the street because they wouldnt let me in with "sporty" sandals. Yeah, that kind of place). But it was amazing - the view was literally unbeatable. We enjoyed some pricey but worth it cocktails, then headed back. And here I am! My taxi will come at midnight for my early morning (3:45!) flight to Rome.

Unlike every other trip I have ever taken, I dont feel sad about this trip ending. Because I know there is so much in store. I'm not going back to any suffocating routines, job....in fact, for better or worse, I'm not going back to anything! Even our apartment will be leased out by June now that Frank is leaving his job. If anything, I am worried about losing all the wonderful feelings I have felt during this trip, getting sucked back into the usual mentality of worrying, planning, obligations, and other tasks that suck our energy and divert us from really living. Hopefully enough of my experiences are ingrained in me that I can call on them at any sign of energy drainage.

I am going to miss Asia though...:( there are no monks on motorbikes in the US, with their saffron robes, there aren't streets full of delectable street food carts surrounded by little plastic chairs half light with fluorescent lights, roosters and babies awaking you at 3am in the small villages, cool people who actually want to make friends with you (not just trying to pick you up in bars which is the usually only time strangers talk to you at home)....and of course, the people of these countries, the beautiful and different nature, the spirit, culture...everything I guess! The things I won't miss are the incessant mosquito's (I'm never without a good batch of itchy bites), lack of toilet necessities (from a Western standpoint....aka, an actual toilet seat, toilet paper, soap, paper towels, automatic flush!), and certain foods (peanut butter!!!). However, the only thing I truly couldn't be without for long is my family and friends. It will be nice to see everyone.

Taxi's here! On to Rome now....ciao!

Modernization - Beware

I have to say I was a bit deflated on the bus ride from the border to Bangkok. Was Thailand going to be a modernized place? The highway was large and paved, with green reflective signs above, just like the US. Sigh. But soon we drove by traditional houses and in Bangkok proper there was a wonderful mix of old and new, sort of like Hong Kong.

What is it about modernized countries that bores many travelers...or in other words, what is it about developing countries that draws such a loyal following? In a word, the answer is Authenticity. Developing countries still exhibit signs of real life. People go to markets, make food at home, share with their neighbors, are generally warm and friendly, have some guiding life philosophy usually wrapped up in rich culture, and more importantly, are not tainted by the ills of modern society: greed, violence, certain health problems, among others. In their simplicity and authenticity, they seem happy.

We envy them for that, and at the same time, feel lucky enough to be invited into that peaceful existence during our visit. If we could, we would protect them from modernization: save yourself! keep your chopped mango instead of packaged potato chips! play games outside instead of on the computer! In what direction is modernization taking them? If we could envision the future state of these countries, is America really the model?

It would be nice to think that we could learn from the West's mistakes and help these countries grow into something more balanced and holistic than our countries are. A country that stays grounded rather than swimming in excess and one that looks after its environment. But alas, it's not likely to happen that way: there isn't someone in charge of Development across the globe that is looking at development and its problems as a larger system. (Oh where are our systems engineers when you need them?). Already, families here watch TV 24/7 and eat Pringles. Modern packaging - plastic of all kinds - litters the streets. ETC.

Where we will turn in 50 years to observe and experience authentic, untainted, and dare I say, happy, societies? Are there enough remote tribes to quell the desires of searching travelers, and once they are found, how soon else will they become tainted? Because unfortunately and ironically, tourism is the numero uno way (or is it TV?) to kick off the process of modernization.

It's not all that bleak. But there is a wonderful and interesting world out there - and a lot that we "lucky" ones - people born in modern countries - can learn from it. Maybe by taking back some of their old world ways, we can make our own societies, and lives, more balanced.